Warsaw Diary – 10th to 15th August, 2014

Five days at Warsaw are coming to an end today. While India is celebrating its 68^th Independence day, 15^th of August, also happens to be a national holiday at Poland - the Day of the Polish Armed forces. It is celebrated to commemorate the Battle of Warsaw, which was fought in 1920. It is considered a breakthrough in world-history, which not only decided Polish independence but is also considered to have prevented communism and Soviet totalitarianism across Europe. Is it the shared history, of which I was not quite aware of, that had drawn me to quite a few Polish people, my professional friends, whom I have known for more than a decade, have met them all over the world other than at their motherland? A trip to Warsaw was special and it will remain a unique memory among all the conference memories that span my long career as a Computer Scientist and a wee bit of Mathematician.

Review sites do not proclaim Warsaw as a tourist’s haven. But for us, the past 4 days of conference, meeting old friends, making new ones and also managing some time out to enjoy Poland - it has been an incredible experience. Soaking in the spirits of a city that has literally risen from the ruins – is something that has to be experienced to be believed. Warsaw, which boasts of a rich cultural heritage, has been ravaged time and again. During the Second World War, with the Red Army across the Vistula river, and the Third Reich breathing down their neck - Warsaw was razed to the ground. In 1945, after the bombing, the revolts and the fighting – Warsaw was a city of ruins – “Miasto Ruin”. Reconstruction of Warsaw started after the war. Today – the part of Warsaw that is called the Old City is in reality new - the result of a nation which tries to remember its glorious past through the re-build. Modern and old architecture blend together to create some of the old-world charm – but the history of loss is written in people’s mind. Most of the Palaces are no more, the wealth is gone – the city today is strewn with parks – some of which housed palaces – the memories preserved in tomb-stones and stone plaques.

The University of Warsaw, Uniwersytet Warszawski, is located at the most exciting part of Warsaw – at the cross-roads of the Old City and modernism.  After World War II, it seems there was a dilemma about whether the university would be restored or not. But many professors who had survived the war returned, and began organizing the university from scratch. Lectures resumed in the ruins of the campus and the buildings were gradually built again. Our conference was housed at the Old Library building, which has now been converted to a terrific conference complex – absolutely modern with superb technical arrangements within the magnificently grand palatial structure with pristine white walls, high ceiling and stone stair ways. The new library has shifted close by – another unique glass structure – with plenty of natural lighting and greenery all-around, complete with arched path-ways covered with vines and a beautiful hanging garden. Jerzy, one of my Polish friends, from nearby Poznan city, patiently took us around, explaining the significance of every nook and corner. His commentary – mixed with Polish humor and a professor’s gentle sophistication is always a delight in itself. Later he led our group of Spanish, Chinese, Greek and myself to the old city where we settled for Polish cheese, dark beer and of course the famous Polish Pierogi!

Music runs in the veins of Warsaw. It is the city of Frederic Chopin - Warsaw’s darling. The concert at the Frederic Chopin University of Music was an out-of-the-world experience. The young and handsome pianist took the audience by storm with myriads of expressions fleeting through his face as he enthralled us with Chopin’s music which embodied not only love and romance but also the history and the fighting spirit of the land. It was a mesmerizing evening.

It is August and the city is alive with flowers. The old city is an absolute charming locality with quaint alleys, shops selling handicraft items, numerous restaurants and the live-music performed by numerous young groups. I went to visit the Lazienke  - the beautiful park that houses quite a few palaces, that survived the vagaries of human destruction show-case a royal art gallery and other remnants of a rich cultural heritage.

A visit to Warsaw cannot be complete without a visit to the Warsaw museum of Uprising – the place literally lets you re-live the Warsaw Uprising, a major World War II operation towards the liberation of Warsaw. Its dark stone interiors with photographs, News paper cuttings, the “Miasto Ruin” movie – stirred the memories of a shared history – so similar yet so dissimilar to the long struggle of India’s independence. While talking to some of the aged professors – who I could see literally felt the pains of destruction still within them – I realized how lucky we are! We still have our Taj Mahal, our temples of Khajuraho, Hampi, Madurai - we did not have to start from the ashes.

A journey is never complete without its food and the Poles believe in pampering the guests. From the coffee breaks to the dinner – the canapés, the crepes, the steaks, the chanterelle, and last but not the least – the delicious bread, orangy buns, cranberry delights – the gastronomic journey was stupendous. If memories of Warsaw can be over-shadowed by anything it is the warmth, the care and the friendship showered by its people. Dominik, Marek, Marcin, Jerzy, Prof. Skowron – this was one of the conferences that will be cherished for a life-time.